Cruise:Naples

Tuesday, September 5, 2000

We had to set an alarm for 6:40 am in order to make the main dining room breakfast and get to our tour to Pompeii on time (the last organized tour of the trip, yahoo). We changed into our substitute wedding bands (plain silver) since crime is common in Naples, and headed to the tour. The bus took us on a detour to a cameo making school/shop which was annoying. It felt like a tour bus stopping for Bird's Nest Soup in Indonesia. The cameos were neat (carvings in sea shells made into jewelry) but we didn't look seriously out of principle for being stuck there by a tour bus. We got back on the bus after a quick potty/water break and there were 2 other couples already on the bus. They were also miffed at the forced shopping trip (which, by the way, the elder tour participants just loved). We ended up hanging out with this quartet for the rest of the day and beyond in the cruise. It turned out they had the same idea as us to ditch the tour bus in Pompeii and take the train to Sorrento and then make our way to Naples by hydrofoil.

The tour of Pompeii was interesting. We were able to get much more of a feel for a complete city than any other place of ruins. However we were a little tired of looking at rocks (like Ephesus and Athens). The tour guide was good but not very enthusiastic. We toured maybe a half or a third of the city which was plenty for us since that took a half a day anyway. Mount Vesuvius looms in the background.

Courthouse in Pompeii. Jails were under the grates.

The main courtyard. The two stories of columns on the left originally went all the way around the courtyard.

Jill in front of the courtyard and Mt. Vesuvius

Mt. Vesuvius through the ruins

A particularly well restored mosaic

Inside a Roman bath

The biggest surprise was the house of some rich family that had several frescoes painted directly on the walls that were recovered when the city was found. One in particular was extremely complimentary of the subject's male privates while another painting made it clear we were in the bedroom and what acts take place there. It appears pornography is very old! It was very amusing to watch the old ladies come out of the small room with the most graphic paintings. That was more fun than seeing the paintings themselves. We did at the end get a glimpse of the plaster casts of people that were stopped dead in their tracks.

A cast made of one of the victims

Another victim of the eruption

The edge of the city of Pompeii

After the tour we hopped the community train to Sorrento (the start of the famous Amalfi coast of Italy). The train was rickety and reminded us of the Paris subway except above ground. It stopped a few time along the way so it took over an hour to reach Sorrento. The tracks ran behind apartment buildings and small gardens so we got some sense of how poor some of the people really are (relative to America) and how they live.

A picturesque street in Sorrento

We had planned to take the hydrofoil from Sorrento to the the Island of Capri but out plans changed. We formally introduced ourselves to Scott, Carrie, Bridget, and Jim and decided to all 6 eat lunch together. Lunch took a while so we decided we would stick around and enjoy Sorrento and not rush a trip to Capri. Actually we decided we could save that trip for next time we visit Italy! Lunch was pizza (good) and a bottle of Chianti (even better) and crème de carmel for dessert (even better yet).

Post lunch the 6 of us took a stroll through Sorrento, stopping for Bridget to buy postcards. We can on to a square with a liquor store so we went in and sampled free lemonciello (lemon liquor that we were fond of from our last trip) and then of course purchased a small bottle. From here we started walking down the cliff, enjoying the views along the way, to the hydrofoil pier.

The coastline of Sorrento

View of Sorrento from the pier

Sorrento is a quaint little seaside town built up into a cliff. It's very picturesque. We bought tickets for 3:30 but no hydrofoil showed up so we hopped the one at 4:30. We were just a slight bit nervous about making it back to the ship but in the end we got back right in time for sailaway. We didn't see much of Sorrento since we spent part of the afternoon worrying about the hydrofoil reliability.

Leaving Sorrento by ferry

After dinner we met Scott & Carrie and Jim & Bridget for the show in the Princess Theater. Jim had already scoped out seats in the 5th row (I'm not fond of the front on live shows, you can't walk out as easily as in the back). The first act was a multi instrumental guy with a banjo and a violin that did a decent rendition of Cotton Eye Joe. Next was the obviously gay acrobatic/contortion/dance team David and Aris. It had an extreme homosexual undertone (which I think flew right by the older theater patrons) and we felt like we were in a San Francisco community theater. Aris did some acrobatic thing for 15 minutes which was based on him being scantily clad and hanging from a couple of velvet ropes near the ceiling. We could have killed Scott for sticking us in the 5th row. The best defense was to close our eyes and forget about where the idea for that act probably came from. The next scene was David dressed as Heidi lip syncing to yodeling and trying to milk a cow and churn butter. At least the props were a cow and butter. We laughed hard enough to cry at this act. The final show was a young juggler named David Lynch and he was excellent. He actually made the show worth while.